A 19th-century engraving of the skald Guttorm Sindre standing before a seated king, reconciling two rival Viking-age rulers — spearmen and longships behind them
history

Before There Was Norway — Petty kingdoms at the edge of the world

In the winter of around 860, Halfdan the Black goes through the ice and drowns. His ten-year-old son inherits one small kingdom among perhaps a dozen along the coast — and over the next twenty years pulls them into the country that has been preparing to exist for centuries.

In the winter of around 860, the most ambitious king in southeastern Norway goes through the ice and drowns. His name is Halfdan the Black Erik Werenskiold's drawing for the 1899 Heimskringla of Halfdan the Black's death — horses and sledge plunging through the spring ice of Røykenvik as men scramble on the breaking floe. Erik Werenskiold, Halvdan Svarte drukner i Røykenvik (1895–1899), Nasjonalmuseet Mid-ninth-century king of the small southeastern Norwegian kingdom of Vestfold; father of Harald Fairhair. Across two decades he absorbed smaller petty kingdoms by treaty and sword. He drowned around 860 when he went through the ice of a frozen lake — probably accidentally, though Snorri's sagas hint at darker possibilities. His ten-year-old son inherited the throne and would, over the next twenty years, consolidate the country into something resembling a unified Norway. . He has ruled the small kingdom of Vestfold Edvard Munch's 1889 Summer in Åsgårdstrand — a white picket fence and yellow house above the deep blue Oslofjord, painted in the little Vestfold seaside town where Munch summered. Edvard Munch, Summer in Asgardstrand (1889), Woll 185, private collection Coastal region on the western shore of the Oslofjord in southeastern Norway, the richest of the petty-kingdom-era Norwegian polities. Controlled the trade routes through the Skagerrak between the North Sea and the Baltic; the wealth in its royal mounds at Borre marks it as the dominant southern Norwegian power of the seventh through ninth centuries. The Yngling dynasty held the throne here. Modern Vestfold is the county containing Tønsberg, Sandefjord, and the Borre Mound Cemetery archaeological site. Vestfold The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway"The King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristA Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churches on the western shore of what is now the Oslofjord Thomas Fearnley's 1839 Utsikt over Oslofjorden — the fjord lying silver beyond wooded ridges and a lone spruce, sails small on the far water. Thomas Fearnley, Utsikt over Oslofjorden (1839), Nasjonalmuseet The hundred-kilometre fjord cutting north into southeastern Norway from the Skagerrak to the present-day capital Oslo. In the petty-kingdom era its western shore was Vestfold and its eastern shore Østfold; the fjord controlled access to the Baltic trade routes. The royal family fled south through it in April 1940 when the Germans attacked Oslo, and the fortress at Oscarsborg sank the German cruiser Blücher at its narrow Drøbak passage on the morning of the invasion. Oslofjord World War II — the King’s “No” and the Nazis in NorwayThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you think , and across twenty years he has pushed his authority outward by treaty when he could and by sword when he could not. The frozen-lake death is probably accidental, though the saga sources hint at darker possibilities. His ten-year-old son Harald Fairhair The Flateyjarbók illumination of Harald Fairhair, c. 1390 — the crowned king seated beneath red tendrils, receiving the kingdom out of his father Halfdan's line. Flateyjarbók illumination, Harald Fairhair receives the kingdom (c. 1387–1394), Árni Magnússon Institute Traditionally remembered as the first king of a unified Norway, reigning ca. 872 to ca. 933. Inherited the small kingdom of Vestfold at ten on the death of his father Halfdan the Black; over two decades subdued the petty kingdoms of the western coast, climaxing at the sea-battle of Hafrsfjord. His court poet's Haraldskvæði calls him lúfa ("shock-head"); Hárfagri ("Fairhair") appears in verse of debated authenticity attributed to his skalds, and is first securely attested in twelfth-century prose (Íslendingabók). The famous oath not to cut his hair until he had subjected every petty king is later saga construction. His actual authority stopped short of the Arctic north and the inland mountains, but he established the durable idea of a single Norwegian crown. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway"The Long Fall — the sudden loss of Norwegian nobility, the end of the kings, and half of Norway gone foreverThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you think inherits a throne that is, by the standards of the country he will eventually rule, very small: a single fjord-side kingdom in the southeastern corner of a coast divided among perhaps a dozen others.

A coastline of small thrones

The country he inherits is not yet a country. It is a clamour of small thrones, and there is no political reason a single Norwegian kingdom should ever have emerged. The land is almost designed to resist consolidation. A coastline mountainous along its entire length, cut by fjords that reach inland for tens or hundreds of kilometers, walled from Sweden by a continuous mountain spine called the Kjølen Johan Fredrik Eckersberg's 1866 Fra Jotunheimen — the bare high spine of the Scandinavian Mountains rising over mist-filled valleys, snowfields streaking the summits. Johan Fredrik Eckersberg, Fra Jotunheimen (1866), Nasjonalmuseet The Scandinavian Mountains, the continuous mountain spine running the length of the Norwegian-Swedish border from the Skagerrak in the south to the Arctic in the north. The Norwegian name Kjølen means "the keel" — the country's geographic backbone. The range walls Norway off from Sweden as effectively as a national border and was the principal reason a unified Norwegian polity could emerge separately from the wider Scandinavian region. , “the keel,” that closes off the inland east as effectively as a national border. Between each fjord and the next, between each valley and the next, the geography makes local life self-contained. A community on the inner Sognefjord J.C. Dahl's Vinter ved Sognefjorden (1827) — a snow-bound shore with an ancient standing stone, the still winter fjord and pale mountains stretching away behind. Johan Christian Dahl, Vinter ved Sognefjorden (1827), Nasjonalmuseet Norway's longest and deepest fjord, reaching two hundred and five kilometres inland from the western coast north of Bergen — the second-longest fjord in the world after Scoresby Sund in Greenland. In the petty-kingdom era it was the spine of the small Norwegian kingdom of Sogn. Its inner branches include the Aurlandsfjord and the Nærøyfjord — the latter a UNESCO World Heritage site. Communities along the Sognefjord historically had more regular contact with distant coastal trading partners than with neighbours one valley over — the geography that shaped why Norway's petty kingdoms organised by waterway rather than by overland adjacency. Sognefjord A Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churches800,000 Norwegians Leave — the century that built a Second Norway can have more regular contact with a Faroese fishing fleet than with the next valley over, because the next valley means a mountain crossing the open sea does not.

The boat, in this country, is the road. The mountains divide neighboring districts so completely that adjacent communities often have less contact with each other than with distant trading partners reached by water. The political consequence is that the coast organizes itself, across the late iron age and into the early medieval period, not as one country but as a sequence of small ones.

The Migration Period

The small kingdoms have not materialized from nothing. Across the centuries historians call the Migration Period The gilded hilt of the Snartemo sword, c. 500 CE — gold-wrapped grip and pommel worked with dense Migration-Period animal ornament, from a chieftain's grave in Vest-Agder. Snartemo sword hilt (c. 500 CE), photo: Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo (CC BY-SA 4.0) The historical period from roughly 375 to 568 CE during which populations across northern Europe shifted dramatically in response to the collapse of the western Roman Empire and the long Germanic movements that followed — Goths, Vandals, Lombards, Franks, and others reorganising the continent's tribal and political map. In Norway it shows up as abandoned farms, newly cleared districts, and the accumulating wealth of fjord-coast chieftains who were by the period's end calling themselves kings. The Norwegian term is Folkevandringstida. , roughly 375 to 568, populations across northern Europe shift in response to the collapse of the western Roman Empire and the long Germanic movements that follow. Norway feels it too: some farms are abandoned, new districts are cleared, and across the wealthier fjords a class of chieftains has been accumulating wealth from continental trade for centuries. Roman bronze and glass appear in the richer Norwegian iron-age burials, alongside brooches modeled on continental fashion and swords from forges that have never seen the Arctic. This is proof of a trade route that runs north through the Germanic territories and reaches the Norwegian coast even though Rome itself never held a lasting frontier beyond the Rhine, let alone reached the north. By the time the Migration Period closes, the chieftains who can control enough productive farmland and enough loyal Hird Pen-and-ink saga illustration: a cloaked, hooded rider on horseback looks back over rustic wooden fencing toward a cluster of turf-roofed farm buildings and hills in the distance, dusk light and dense hatching giving the scene a shadowed, watchful mood. Eilif Peterssen, illustration for Magnus Blindes og Harald Gilles saga, Heimskringla (J.M. Stenersen & Co, 1899 edition) Old Norse hirð — the personal armed retinue of a king or jarl, the household warriors who lived at the king's hall, ate at his table, and fought as his core force in war. The size and quality of a king's hird was a direct measure of his political power. The Norwegian hird formalised across the medieval period; by the thirteenth century it had acquired continental-style subdivisions (kertilsveinr squires, hirðmenn men-at-arms, skutilsveinr knights). The Old English cognate húscarl enters English as housecarl. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" are calling themselves kings. The first written witness to the result comes by way of Constantinople Cristoforo Buondelmonti's fifteenth-century map of Constantinople — the walled triangular city between the Golden Horn and the Marmara, Hagia Sophia and the Hippodrome drawn among the towers, Pera across the water. Cristoforo Buondelmonti, Map of Constantinople from the Liber Insularum Archipelagi (before 1430), Bibliothèque nationale de France Capital of the Eastern Roman (later Byzantine) Empire, on the Bosphorus where the Black Sea meets the Mediterranean. Founded by the Roman emperor Constantine in 324 CE on the site of the older Greek colony of Byzantion and dedicated as the city of Constantinople on 11 May 330. Capital of the Eastern empire from 395 until its fall to the Ottoman Turks in 1453; officially renamed Istanbul under the Turkish Republic in 1930. The Gothic historian Jordanes wrote the Getica, the first written account of the Norwegian petty-kingdom world, while working in the city in 551 CE. Norse mercenaries (the Varangians) later served there as the Byzantine emperor's elite imperial guard. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway"The Crusades?!!!! — sixty ships from Bergen, bound for the Holy Land : in 551, the historian Jordanes Three lines of early medieval Latin minuscule on toned paper — a facsimile specimen from the Heidelberg codex of Jordanes, engraved for Friedrich Wilken's 1817 catalogue; the visible passage names Macedonia, Philip and Perseus. Friedrich Wilken, script specimen of Codex Heidelbergensis Pal. lat. 921 (Jordanes), Heidelberg 1817 Sixth-century historian of Gothic origin, working in the late-Roman East at Constantinople. His Latin Getica (completed 551 CE) is a history of the Goths whose geographical preamble names a list of peoples inhabiting Scandza — the great northern island Mediterranean geographers had vaguely known of for centuries. Several of his tribe names line up readably onto the map of what was then becoming pre-Norway; his preamble is the first written witness to the Norwegian petty-kingdom world. , a The Goths Joseph-Noël Sylvestre's 1890 Sack of Rome — Visigothic warriors hauling on ropes to topple a colossal marble statue of the emperor, the city dim with smoke behind. Joseph-Noël Sylvestre, Le Sac de Rome par les barbares en 410 (1890), Musée Paul Valéry, Sète East Germanic people prominent in the late Roman and early-medieval periods. From their original homeland — long thought to lie along the southern Baltic but origins are debated — the Goths migrated south through the Roman provinces during the Migration Period, split into Visigoths and Ostrogoths, sacked Rome in 410 (Visigoths under Alaric), and founded kingdoms in Italy and the Iberian peninsula that lasted into the seventh and eighth centuries. The Gothic historian Jordanes, working in Constantinople in 551, wrote the Getica, the first historical text to mention the peoples of Scandza (Scandinavia) by name. working in the late-Roman East, finishes his Getica The title page of Theodor Mommsen's 1882 critical edition, Iordanis Romana et Getica — the canonical text of the sixth-century history that first names the peoples of Scandza. Title page, Iordanis Romana et Getica, ed. Th. Mommsen (Berlin, 1882), Monumenta Germaniae Historica AA 5,1 De origine actibusque Getarum ("On the Origin and Deeds of the Goths"), a Latin history of the Goths completed by Jordanes in Constantinople in 551 CE. Its geographical preamble describes Scandza — the great northern island of classical geography — and names a list of peoples inhabiting it, several of whose tribe names line up readably onto the map of what was becoming pre-Norway. The Getica is the earliest surviving written witness to the Norwegian world. , a Latin history of the Goths whose geographical preamble names a list of peoples inhabiting Scandza Olaus Magnus's Carta Marina of 1539 — the great early wall map of the Nordic lands, Scandinavia drawn as a vast near-island crowded with mountains and place-names, sea monsters filling the waters. Olaus Magnus, Carta Marina (1539), via Wikimedia Commons The classical and early-medieval Mediterranean name for Scandinavia, imagined as a great northern island somewhere beyond the known world. Used by Roman and Eastern Roman geographers from Pliny through Jordanes; the philological source of the modern name "Scandinavia." In Jordanes's Getica (551 CE) the geographical preamble names a list of peoples inhabiting Scandza, several of whose tribe names line up readably onto the map of what was then becoming pre-Norway. — the great northern island that Mediterranean geographers have vaguely known about for centuries — and several of his tribe names line up readably onto the map of what is by then becoming pre-Norway.

The kingdoms by name

By the seventh and eighth centuries the regional kingdoms have names, many of them the same names the country still uses for its modern counties. The richest sits in the southeast, around the Oslofjord and its mouth. Vestfold, on the western shore of the fjord, controls the trade routes through the Skagerrak Carl Locher's 1894 oil sketch of the open Skagerrak off Skagen — blue water to the horizon, distant steamers trailing smoke along the sea lane. Carl Locher, Marine ud for Skagen Nordstrand (1894), via Wikimedia Commons The strait between southern Norway, the western coast of Sweden, and the northern tip of Denmark's Jutland peninsula, connecting the North Sea to the Baltic via the Kattegat. The central maritime trade artery of northern Europe across the iron age and the petty-kingdom centuries. Whoever controlled the southern Norwegian coast controlled the goods moving through the Skagerrak — which is why the Vestfold kings on its northern shore were the dominant southern Norwegian power of the period. , the strait between the North Sea and the Kattegat that opens the sea road toward the Baltic, and the goods that move on them. Its kings bury their dead at Borre Johannes Flintoe's sepia pen-and-wash drawing, in an oval vignette, of the Borre burial mounds: grassy grave-hills beside the fjord, zig-zag rail fences, haymakers with scythes, a farm building under a large tree, and a handwritten Norwegian title naming the kings' grave-mounds. Johannes Flintoe, Gravhöie i Borre paa Vestfold (1834–38), Nasjonalmuseet, Oslo Royal burial complex on the western shore of the Oslofjord in Horten Municipality, north of present-day Tønsberg in Vestfold. Seven large burial mounds and twenty-one smaller cairns mark the cemetery of the Yngling dynasty across the eighth and ninth centuries — the largest concentration of royal burial mounds in northern Europe. The first Viking ship ever excavated was unearthed here in 1852. The site is preserved as the Borre Mound Cemetery with the Midgard Vikingsenter museum on the grounds. Borre, Vestfold in a cluster of large royal mounds that still stand on the fjord’s western shore, and the wealth in those graves marks Vestfold as the dominant southern Norwegian power of its period. The ruling family is the Yngling dynasty Gerhard Munthe's 1899 roundel vignette of King Dag the Wise of the Yngling line, riding with his sparrow on his outstretched hand. Gerhard Munthe, Ynglinge-saga vignette: King Dag the Wise (c. 1896), Snorre 1899 edition The ruling family of the petty kingdom of Vestfold across the eighth and ninth centuries. The dynasty traced its descent through the skaldic genealogical poem Ynglingatal back through a sequence of Swedish kings to the god Frey — a religious legitimation of rule rather than a historically reliable lineage. The dynasty itself is real and produced Halfdan the Black and Harald Fairhair, the consolidator who founded the unified Norwegian crown. , which traces its descent through the late-ninth-century poem Ynglingatal The illuminated first page of Codex Frisianus (c. 1300), the Heimskringla manuscript whose opening leaves carry Ynglinga saga — a decorated initial curling down the left margin. Codex Frisianus (AM 45 fol., c. 1300), first page; photo CC0 via Wikimedia Commons Late-ninth-century skaldic genealogical poem, traditionally attributed to Þjóðólfr of Hvinir. Traces the descent of the Vestfold Yngling dynasty through a sequence of Swedish kings back to the god Frey. Preserved in fragments quoted in Snorri Sturluson's Heimskringla (specifically in Ynglinga saga, which Snorri built around it). The poem's form is a death-catalogue: stanza by stanza it counts off king after king by the manner of his dying — Agni hanged by Queen Skjálf with the cord of his own gold neck-ring, Vanlandi trodden to death in his sleep by a mara. A royal pedigree kept as a ledger of deaths is how a night-creature comes to stand in a genealogy of kings. Mare — the creature behind the word nightmare , attributed to the Skald Bold woodcut-style illustration from the 1899 Heimskringla: King Olav, long-haired and bearded, holds out a sword hilt-up to the skald Sigvat, who stands at right in a hat and long tunic; behind them rise curved ship timbers and two large round ornamented shields. Christian Krohg, illustration for Óláfs saga helga, in Snorri Sturluson's Heimskringla (J.M. Stenersen & Co, 1899 edition) Old Norse court poet. Skalds composed verse on behalf of kings and earls — praise-poems (drápur), genealogies (like Þjóðólfr's Ynglingatal), and memorial verse for the dead — and the most prized were attached to royal courts. The skaldic tradition is metrically intricate (the dróttkvætt metre is one of the most technically demanding in any European literary tradition) and the poems preserved alongside the prose sagas are some of the very few contemporary sources for Viking-age and pre-Viking-age Norwegian political history. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" Þjóðólfr of Hvinir Gerhard Munthe's round black-and-white vignette from the 1899 Heimskringla: Queen Skjálf, in scarf and long gown, crouches over the sleeping King Agni and fastens a cord at his neck, while a man behind her holds the line taut against a night sky with a single large star. Gerhard Munthe, Ynglinge-saga vignette: Skjálf and King Agni, in Snorre Sturlason: Kongesagaer, J.M. Stenersen & Co, 1899 Late-ninth-century Norwegian skald, court poet probably of Harald Fairhair. Traditionally attributed as the composer of Ynglingatal, the skaldic genealogical poem tracing the Vestfold Yngling kings back through a sequence of Swedish predecessors to the god Frey. How much of the genealogy is historical and how much is legitimating mythology is debated; the poem itself is genuine and one of the earliest surviving skaldic compositions. Mare — the creature behind the word nightmare , back through a sequence of Swedish kings to the god Frey The Rällinge statuette — a small Viking Age bronze of a seated, cross-legged bearded figure in a pointed cap, identified as the fertility god Freyr. Rällinge Freyr statuette (Viking Age), photo: Ola Myrin, Historiska museet/SHM (CC BY 4.0) Old Norse god (Old Norse Freyr, "lord") of fertility, prosperity, fair weather, peace, and good harvest, brother of Freyja and one of the principal Vanir deities incorporated into the Æsir pantheon. The Yngling dynasty of Vestfold claimed direct descent from Frey through the line traced in Ynglingatal; the claim was a religious legitimation of the dynasty's right to rule. Worshiping Odin and Thor — the lived religion of pre-Christian NorwayNordisk Mytologi — Odin, the giants, and Ragnarok . How much of that genealogy is historically reliable is debated; the dynasty itself is real and holds the throne in Vestfold across the eighth and ninth centuries.

Further south and west sit the other named kingdoms. Agder Amaldus Nielsen's 1885 Morning in Ny-Hellesund — dawn light on the bare coastal rocks of the Agder skerries, a red-roofed house at the water and a rowing boat crossing the still sound. Amaldus Nielsen, Morning in Ny-Hellesund (1885), Nasjonalmuseet, NG.M.00326 Region on the southern coast of Norway, west of the Skagerrak. In the petty-kingdom era a single smaller kingdom; under twentieth-century administrative reform divided into Aust-Agder (East) and Vest-Agder (West), then reunified in 2020. Its principal modern city is Kristiansand. Agder and Rogaland Lars Hertervig's 1855 coastal landscape — storm light breaking over the rocky Ryfylke shore of his native Rogaland, sails on the grey water beyond the surf. Lars Hertervig, Coastal Landscape (1855), Nasjonalmuseet / Google Art Project Region on the southwestern coast of Norway, centred on the agriculturally productive Jæren plain — the largest single stretch of arable land in the country. Modern Rogaland contains Stavanger, the petroleum capital of Norway, and Hafrsfjord, the traditional site of Harald Fairhair's consolidating sea-battle around 880. Rogaland line the southern coast, the latter centered on the agriculturally productive Jæren Kitty Kielland's Peat Bog on Jæren (1900) — the flat open lowland south of Stavanger under a heavy rain sky, dark peat stacks and still bog pools stretching to a low horizon. Kitty Kielland, Peat Bog on Jæren / Torvmyr på Jæren (1900), Nasjonalmuseet The flat coastal agricultural plain south of Stavanger in Rogaland — the largest single stretch of flat lowland in Norway, around seven hundred square kilometres. The wealth of the Rogaland petty-kingdom rested on Jæren's grain and cattle production; modern Jæren remains one of the country's principal food-producing regions. Jæren plain, the largest single stretch of arable land in the country. Up the western coast come the maritime kingdoms: Hordaland Tidemand and Gude's 1848 Brudeferd i Hardanger — the bridal party rowed across the glassy Hardangerfjord in festive dress, snow peaks and a stave-church shore behind: the iconic image of the Hordaland fjord country. Adolph Tidemand & Hans Gude, Brudeferd i Hardanger (1848), Nasjonalmuseet / Google Art Project Region on the western coast of Norway centred on what is now Bergen. In the petty-kingdom era a smaller maritime kingdom; from the high medieval period the dominant Norwegian commercial region through the Hanseatic period at Bryggen. Folded with adjacent Sogn og Fjordane into the modern county of Vestland in 2020. Hordaland (Bergen region) The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" around what is now Bergen A colored 1890s photochrom of Bergen from the slope of Fløyfjellet: red rooftops and a green-spired church tower below a hillside path, Vågen harbour dense with masted ships, and the Byfjorden opening between low mountains to the horizon. Photochrom print, General view from Fjeldveien, Bergen (c. 1890–1900), Library of Congress Norway's western trading capital, founded around 1070 on the inner Byfjorden. For four centuries the largest city in the country and the wharf through which the entire western export economy ran — dried cod from the Lofoten fisheries, stockpiled and traded by the Hanseatic merchants at Bryggen from 1360 to 1754. Norway's commercial and intellectual heart through the Hanseatic period; overtaken in size by Christiania (Oslo) in the 1830s. The painted wooden Bryggen wharf is on the UNESCO World Heritage list and substantially what it was in the late seventeenth century. The Ungdommene (the Youngsters) reach Bergen late on Day 3 via the Norway-in-a-Nutshell train-and-ferry route from Oslo. On the Day 4 morning they walk Bryggen and ride the funicular up Mount Fløyen before flying back to Oslo and driving on to Lillehammer that evening — a day ahead of the Gråhårsklubben (the Oldsters), who spend the split days north in Trondheim and the heritage country of Stjørdal, Hegra, and Kylloplass and come south on Day 5. Bergen The Germans Who "Ruled" Bergen — the Hanseatic merchants on Bryggen WharfThe King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristA Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Long Fall — the sudden loss of Norwegian nobility, the end of the kings, and half of Norway gone foreverThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you thinkThe 400-Year Night — when the Northern Lion lay dormantThe Crusades?!!!! — sixty ships from Bergen, bound for the Holy LandThe Reformation, 1537 — one church eradicated and another imposedWorld War II — the King’s “No” and the Nazis in NorwayKraken — the island-sized beast, logged as factSjøormer — the serpents in the deep lakes and fjordsPesta — an old woman walking from farm to farmFossegrimen — the waterfall fiddler who teaches you to playAlcohol and Vinmonopolet — when and where to buy a drinkEveryday etiquette — quiet voices, wide space, no smilingFood and dining customs — having patience, free water, brunost on everything🚨 Emergencies - important numbers, hospitals, and what you can doLanguage basics — just enough Norwegian to be politeWhat to wear — the layering system, on the ground ; Sogn Knud Knudsen's 1885 photograph of Mundal in Fjærland, Sogn — a fjord-arm village with its steamer at the pier, the glacier gleaming at the valley head. Knud Knudsen, Parti fra Mundal i Fjærland, Sogn (1885), Nasjonalmuseet (NMK.2006.5108) Region on the western coast of Norway around the long inland Sognefjord. In the petty-kingdom era a small maritime kingdom whose wealth came from coastal trade and harbour control rather than agriculture. The Sogn name survives in modern usage; the region was folded into the larger administrative county of Vestland in 2020. Day 3 carries the Ungdommene (the Youngsters) into Sogn — the Flåm railway, the Stegastein overlook, and the Nærøyfjord cruise all lie within the old Sogn district. Sogn 800,000 Norwegians Leave — the century that built a Second Norway around the long inner fjord that still bears its name; Fjordane Carl Nielsen's 1894 painting of Loen in Nordfjord — log farm buildings on a stony track above the fjord arm, steep snow-streaked mountainsides closing in behind. Carl Nielsen, View of Loen in Nordfjord (1894), Nasjonalmuseet, NG.M.03446 Region on the western coast of Norway directly north of Sogn, organised around several short coastal fjords. In the petty-kingdom era a small maritime kingdom; later combined with Sogn into Sogn og Fjordane and folded into the modern administrative county of Vestland in 2020. Fjordane north of Sogn; Sunnmøre Knud Knudsen's nineteenth-century photograph of the Geirangerfjord in Sunnmøre — sheer fjord walls dropping to mirror-still water, thin waterfalls threading the cliffs, snow on the peaks at the fjord's head. Knud Knudsen, Parti fra Geiranger, Sondmore (1864-1889), National Library of Norway Region on the northwestern Norwegian coast, the southernmost of the three traditional districts of the modern county of Møre og Romsdal, sitting just south of the Stadt headland. In the petty-kingdom era a small maritime kingdom whose wealth came from coastal trade and fishing rather than agriculture. The principal modern town is Ålesund, rebuilt in Art Nouveau style after a devastating fire in 1904. Sunnmøre The 400-Year Night — when the Northern Lion lay dormant and Romsdal Johan Fredrik Eckersberg's 1857 painting from Horgheim in Romsdal — the sheer valley wall rising straight from the flat floor of Romsdalen, the Rauma winding below. Johan Fredrik Eckersberg, From Horgheim in Romsdal (1857), Nasjonalmuseet Region on the northwestern Norwegian coast, the middle of the three traditional districts of the modern county of Møre og Romsdal, centred on the Romsdal valley and the long Romsdalsfjord. In the petty-kingdom era a small maritime kingdom; the principal modern town is Molde. Romsdal further up the coast. These western kingdoms are smaller than Vestfold but tightly tied to the open sea, and the wealth of their chieftains comes more from fishing, coastal trade, and control of harbours than from agricultural land.

Past the headland of Stadt Photograph from about 1900, taken over a ship's wake off Stadlandet — the headland's dark cliff plateau dropping to the sea at left, low islets with a scatter of buildings to the right under a pale sky. 'Norge: Statlandet, Nordfjord' is printed in the negative. Mittet & Co., Norge, Statlandet, Nordfjord (c. 1900), National Library of Norway The headland on the western coast of Norway between Møre og Romsdal and the Nordfjord region, traditionally regarded as the dividing line between southern and northern Norway. The most exposed navigational point on the Norwegian coastline; rounding Stadt is considered one of the most dangerous stretches of European coastal sailing because the open Atlantic meets the mountain wind funnels without break. Modern Stadlandet is in Stad municipality. Stadt (Stadlandet) , which traditionally marks the divide between southern and northern Norway, the dominant power is the kingdom of Trøndelag An 1826 painted prospect of Trondheim — Nidaros Cathedral rising over the town inside the river bend, wharf-houses and the old town bridge along the Nidelva. Johannes Aas, Prospect af Staden Trondhiem (1826), Municipal Archives of Trondheim (CC BY 2.0) Region of central Norway around the Trondheim Fjord, north of Stadt and south of Hålogaland. Its agriculturally rich Trondheim plain is the second-largest area of arable land in the country and the base of the medieval earls of Lade. Trondheim — founded by Olav Tryggvason in 997 as Nidaros — became the seat of the Norwegian archbishopric in 1153 and remains the country's third-largest city and ecclesiastical capital. Day 3-5 of the trip routes the Gråhårsklubben (the Oldsters) through Trøndelag for the Slektsreisen heritage drive — Trondheim and the Nidaros Cathedral on Day 3, then Stjørdal and Hegra, then on up the Stjørdalen valley to Kylloplass. Trøndelag (Trondheim) Worshiping Odin and Thor — the lived religion of pre-Christian NorwayThe King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristThe Long Fall — the sudden loss of Norwegian nobility, the end of the kings, and half of Norway gone foreverLutheran Norway and Pietism — a farmer named Hans Nielsen Hauge and a lay revival that could not be silencedDraugen — the drowned man who never came homeThe Hytte — a sacred pastime of modern Norway and the Earl of Lade Christian Krohg's 1899 Heimskringla vignette of Håkon jarl of Lade — the earl sitting up in the dark, hand clenched in his hair, brooding. Christian Krohg, Håkon jarl, illustration for Olav Tryggvasons saga, Heimskringla folk edition (J.M. Stenersen & Co, 1899) The Lade dynasty held the rich Trøndelag farmland from its seat on the inner Trondheim Fjord — for two centuries the principal rival to the Fairhair-line Norwegian crown. From Hákon Sigurdsson (Hákon Jarl, d. 995) through Eirik Hákonsson (d. ~1023), the Lade earls ran central Norway as their own polity, sometimes acclaimed king, sometimes regent under a foreign overlord, always in tension with the southern royal court. Their seat at Lade is now a quiet residential district on the inner Trondheim Fjord. Lade peninsula, Trondheim Fjord The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway"The King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to Christ . The Lade family holds the title of Jarl Old Norse for "earl" — a nobleman ranking just below a king. In the pre-unification and Viking-age Norwegian polities a jarl typically governed a region under a king's nominal overlordship; in the case of the earls of Lade in Trøndelag, the jarl's political authority was equivalent to a king's and the title difference was largely formal. The English word earl is a direct borrowing of jarl via Old English eorl. , “earl,” rather than Konungr Old Norse for "king" — the title of a sovereign ruler in pre-unification and medieval Scandinavia. Cognate with English king, German König, and modern Norwegian konge. In the petty-kingdom era a konungr held authority over a single fjord or valley district, served as war leader and religious officiant, and ruled alongside the regional thing. The Vestfold konungr Harald Fairhair would, after the Battle of Hafrsfjord, become the first konungr claimed (by later saga tradition) to rule over all of Norway. , “king,” but their political authority is equivalent to a southern king’s, and their holdings on the Trondheim Knud Knudsen's photograph of Trondheim harbour in the early 1890s — masts and moored sloops along the wharf-houses of the Nidelva. Knud Knudsen, Parti af Havnen i Trondhjem (1888-1894), National Library of Norway Norway's third-largest city, founded by Olav Tryggvason in 997 as Nidaros at the mouth of the Nid River on the inner Trondheim Fjord. Capital of the Norwegian kingdom for much of the medieval period; seat of the Norwegian archbishopric from 1153 and of the Olav cult that anchored medieval Norwegian Christianity. Renamed Trondheim in 1931 — after a controversial one-year spell officially named Nidaros from 1930 — replacing the Danish-era spelling Trondhjem and reviving the medieval Old Norse district name (Þrándheimr). About two hundred thousand people in the municipality today. Home to Nidaros Cathedral, NTNU (the Norwegian University of Science and Technology), and the Trondheim Fjord harbour. Day 3 of the trip routes the Gråhårsklubben (the Oldsters) through Trondheim. The visit centres on Nidaros Cathedral — the building the Olav devotion raised, and the architectural inheritance of Bishop Grimkell's pronouncement on a summer day in 1031. Trondheim The King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristA Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Crusades?!!!! — sixty ships from Bergen, bound for the Holy LandThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you thinkThe Long Fall — the sudden loss of Norwegian nobility, the end of the kings, and half of Norway gone foreverThe 400-Year Night — when the Northern Lion lay dormantThe Reformation, 1537 — one church eradicated and another imposedLutheran Norway and Pietism — a farmer named Hans Nielsen Hauge and a lay revival that could not be silencedWorld War II — the King’s “No” and the Nazis in NorwayDriving in Norway — tolls, ferries, and a near-zero alcohol limitEveryday etiquette — quiet voices, wide space, no smiling🚨 Emergencies - important numbers, hospitals, and what you can doLanguage basics — just enough Norwegian to be polite plain — the second-largest area of good agricultural land in the country — are larger than most southern kingdoms put together. North of Trøndelag stretches Hålogaland Otto Sinding's 1882 En forårsdag i Lofoten — the working shore of old Hålogaland in spring: boats, drying racks, and barrels below snow-streaked peaks. Otto Sinding, En forårsdag i Lofoten (1882), Statens Museum for Kunst The northern Norwegian region running from modern Nordland into the Arctic. In the petty-kingdom era its kings grew wealthy on walrus ivory from the Arctic, furs from the inland forests, and tribute paid by the Sámi peoples of the interior. The Hålogaland magnate Ohthere, whose c. 890 account given at King Alfred's court is the earliest detailed geographic description of Norway, controlled this trade. The Hålogaland name has dropped from contemporary administrative usage but persists in geographic and ecclesiastical contexts (the Hålogaland Court of Appeal, the Hålogaland Lutheran diocese). Hålogaland (Nordland) , which runs from modern Nordland Peder Balke's painting Fra Nordland — a snow-streaked mountain wall with a single sharp horn rising above a dark strip of coast, green breakers rolling ashore in the foreground and a lone sail far out on the water. Peder Balke, Fra Nordland, Nationalmuseum (Stockholm) Northern Norwegian county running from south of the Arctic Circle to the border with Troms og Finnmark in the north. In the petty-kingdom era the southern part of Hålogaland; today one of the largest Norwegian counties by area but among the most thinly populated, the long-coastal heartland of cod fishing and the home of the Lofoten archipelago. Principal city: Bodø. Nordland Draugen — the drowned man who never came home into the Arctic Sea. Its kings grow wealthy on walrus ivory traded from the far north, on furs taken from the inland forests, and on tribute paid by the The Sámi A hand-tinted photochrom of a Sámi family from around 1896 — adults and children in gákti dress gathered with their dog outside two lávvu tents. Unknown photographer, Saami Family (c. 1896, Kanstadfjord near Lødingen), Library of Congress The Indigenous people of Sápmi, the cultural region across the northern interior of present-day Norway, Sweden, Finland, and the Russian Kola Peninsula. Sámi languages belong to the Uralic family, unrelated to Norse. A distinctly Sámi material culture is visible in the archaeological record from about 500 BCE. The traditional Sámi economy ran on hunting, fishing, and trapping, with semi-domesticated reindeer used for transport long before the large-scale reindeer pastoralism of later centuries. Sámi religious life centred on the noaidi (ritual specialist), the goavddis (painted ritual drum), and the sieidi (sacred natural places). Modern Sámi political representation runs through the Sámi parliaments in Norway, Sweden, and Finland. Samene — the other people of NorwayWorshiping Odin and Thor — the lived religion of pre-Christian NorwayThe Reformation, 1537 — one church eradicated and another imposedWorld War II — the King’s “No” and the Nazis in NorwayPolitikk — the left, the right, and the Norwegian way of the interior. The trade is attested by the Hålogaland magnate Ohthere of Hålogaland A page of the Tollemache Orosius (c. 900), the Old English manuscript from Alfred's Wessex that preserves Ohthere's account — ruled lines of Anglo-Saxon minuscule with a great opening initial. Tollemache Orosius, British Library Add MS 47967, fol. 2r (c. 892-925) Late-ninth-century Norse merchant and chieftain from Hålogaland in northern Norway. Visited the court of King Alfred the Great in Wessex around 890 CE and gave an oral account of his homeland — the coast, the trade in walrus ivory and furs, the Sámi tribute economy, the sailing routes — that Alfred had recorded in the Old English translation of Orosius. Ohthere's account is one of the very few contemporary written sources for any of the petty-kingdom Norwegian world. Samene — the other people of Norway , whose late-ninth-century account given to King Alfred the Great The Alfred Jewel — gold, rock crystal and enamel, made at Alfred's court in the late ninth century, its rim reading AELFRED MEC HEHT GEWYRCAN: Alfred ordered me made. The Alfred Jewel (late 9th century), Ashmolean Museum, Oxford; photo: Giles Watson (CC BY-SA 2.0) King of the West Saxons (Wessex) 871-899; the only English monarch ever bynamed "the Great." Held off the Viking Great Heathen Army's conquest of southern England in the 870s and 880s, established a scholarly court at Winchester, and commissioned a series of Old English translations of Latin texts — including the Orosius that preserves Ohthere of Hålogaland's late-ninth-century geographic account of Norway. Through Alfred's court the Norwegian petty kingdoms get their earliest detailed mention in surviving European literature. at the West Saxon court is one of the very few contemporary written sources for any of it. The country is, in its first written description of itself, a coastline of small thrones.

The þing

Within each kingdom, the political structure is less centralized than the word “kingdom” might suggest. The king himself, or jarl in the Trøndelag case, is a war leader and a religious officiant: he leads men into battle, performs the seasonal sacrifices at the local pagan shrines, arbitrates disputes among his chieftains, and collects tribute in commodity from the farmsteads under his authority. He does not, in any modern sense, govern. The actual legal life of his kingdom is conducted at the Thing (þing) Halfdan Egedius's 1899 Heimskringla drawing of a ting in Rogaland — the most eloquent of the farmers rises head and shoulders above the helmeted assembly to speak. Halfdan Egedius, Tinget i Rogaland (1897), Snorre 1899 edition The regional open-air assembly of free men in pre-unification and medieval Norway — Old Norse þing. Held annually or seasonally at fixed traditional locations, the thing settled disputes, ratified new laws, and tested the king's authority. Free men attended in person and could argue cases on their own behalf or be represented by lögmenn, the law-speakers. The thing could ratify the king's policies or reject them and could withhold consent from a king who had become unpopular. The Norwegian rural population expected to participate in its own legal life — an expectation that shaped Norwegian political culture for the next thousand years and is visible today in the country's high voter turnout and consensus- driven politics. , the regional open-air assembly of free men, held annually or seasonally at a fixed and traditional location, where disputes are settled, new laws are ratified, and the king’s authority is tested.

Free men attend in person. They argue cases on their own behalf or are represented by Lögmenn Christian Krohg's 1899 Heimskringla drawing of Torgny the Lawspeaker — the hooded lögmaðr standing with his staff above a sea of helmeted freemen at the Uppsala thing. Christian Krohg, Torgny lagmann på Uppsalating, Heimskringla 1899 edition (J.M. Stenersen & Co) Old Norse for "law-men" or "law-speakers" (singular lögmaðr). The legal specialists of the pre-unification and medieval Norwegian thing assemblies. Before written codification, the lögmenn memorised the customary law and could recite the relevant provisions on request during a thing proceeding. They served as advocates for litigants, advisors to the assembled freemen, and the institutional memory of the legal tradition. The Icelandic Alþing had its own lögmaðr who recited a third of the law each year, completing the cycle in three years. Modern Norwegian uses lagmann for an appellate-court judge. , the law-speakers who know the customary law by memory and can recite it on request. The þing can ratify the king’s policies or reject them. It can withhold consent from a king who has become unpopular, and later sagas preserve cases of this happening, though the seventh- and eighth-century record is too thin to confirm any specific deposition. Four broad regional law-traditions grow out of these assemblies: the Gulating A weathered stone cross stands beside the wrought-iron gate and stone wall at the entrance to Eivindvik church on Gulen, the white clapboard church with pointed Gothic windows visible behind it among evergreens. Jeblad, Steinkorset ved porten til Eivindvik kirke (2008), Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 The regional thing-law assembly of southwestern Norway, meeting traditionally at Gulen in present-day Sogn og Fjordane. One of the four great medieval Norwegian regional law traditions; its jurisdiction covered the western coast from Agder to Sunnmøre and produced the Gulatingslova, recorded in writing by the twelfth century. The Gulating tradition was rolled into Magnus Lagabøte's Landslov of 1274. The modern Gulating Court of Appeal in Bergen inherits the name. The King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristA Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you think in the southwestern districts, the Frostating Two parchment fragments of the Frostatingslova, c. 1260 — medieval book-hand in two columns with red rubrics and ornamented initials in blue, red, and green. Frostatingslova fragment (c. 1260), National Archives of Norway (Riksarkivet), CC BY-SA 4.0 The regional thing-law assembly of central Norway, meeting at Frosta on the Trondheim Fjord. Jurisdiction covered Trøndelag and the surrounding northern districts. Its codification, the Frostatingslova, dates to the twelfth century in its surviving form but preserves substantially older customary law. Rolled into Magnus Lagabøte's Landslov of 1274. The modern Frostating Court of Appeal in Trondheim carries the name. Worshiping Odin and Thor — the lived religion of pre-Christian NorwayThe King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristA Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you think in central Norway, the Borgarting 1795 oil painting of Sarpsfossen: the broad falls churn white between rocky banks lined with timber yards and mill buildings, a manor on the wooded hill beyond, and a herder with cattle and goats watching from the near bank. Christian August Lorentzen, The Waterfall Sarpsfossen (1795), Nasjonalmuseet The regional thing-law assembly of southeastern Norway, meeting at Borg (modern Sarpsborg). Jurisdiction covered the southeast including Vestfold and Østfold. Its surviving Borgartingslova preserves the regional legal tradition of the southeastern petty kingdoms; rolled into Magnus Lagabøte's Landslov of 1274. The modern Borgarting Court of Appeal in Oslo carries the name. A Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you think in the southeast around Vestfold, and the Eidsivating The memorial stone at Eidsvoll inscribed 'Her stod Eidsivatinget' — here stood the Eidsivating — marking the meeting place of the medieval inland assembly. Photo: Harry Wad, Eidsivating memorial stone at Eidsvoll (2007), CC BY 2.5 The regional thing-law assembly of the inland east of Norway, meeting traditionally at Eidsvoll — the same Eidsvoll where, eight centuries later, the Norwegian Constitution was written and signed in 1814. Jurisdiction covered the inland districts of Hedmark, Romerike, and the surrounding interior. Its Eidsivatingslova was rolled into Magnus Lagabøte's Landslov of 1274. The modern Eidsivating Court of Appeal carries the name; its seat is at Hamar. A Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you think in the inland east. These will eventually, four centuries later, be unified by Magnus VI Lagabøte The thirteenth-century stone head of King Magnus VI Lagabøte in Stavanger Cathedral — a crowned royal face carved within living memory of the king, worn smooth by seven centuries. Stone head of Magnus VI Lagabøte (13th c.), Stavanger Cathedral; photo: Gunleiv Hadland (CC BY-SA 3.0) King of Norway 1263-1280, bynamed Lagabøte ("Law-mender") in recognition of his promulgation in 1274 of the Landslov, the Code of National Law that unified the four regional thing-law traditions (Gulating, Frostating, Borgarting, Eidsivating) into a single national code. The Landslov remained the law of Norway for more than four hundred years and made Norway one of the first European kingdoms with a unified national legal code. The Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you thinkThe Long Fall — the sudden loss of Norwegian nobility, the end of the kings, and half of Norway gone foreverThe Germans Who "Ruled" Bergen — the Hanseatic merchants on Bryggen WharfThe 400-Year Night — when the Northern Lion lay dormantAllemannsretten — the right to roam ’s Landslov (1274) A page of Magnus Lagabøte's Landslov in a medieval copy — two columns of Old Norse book-hand opening the land-defence section, with a great interlace initial in red, green, and blue. Magnus Lagabøtes landslov, AM 305 fol., fol. 10v (13th-14th c.), via Wikimedia Commons Norwegian Magnus Lagabøtes landslov — the Code of National Law promulgated by King Magnus VI Lagabøte in 1274. Unified the four separate regional thing-law traditions (Gulating, Frostating, Borgarting, Eidsivating) into a single code applying across the whole Norwegian kingdom. Made Norway one of the first European kingdoms with a unified national legal code, decades ahead of similar developments in England or France. Remained the law of Norway for more than four hundred years, until Christian V's Norske Lov superseded it in 1687. The Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you thinkThe 400-Year Night — when the Northern Lion lay dormantAllemannsretten — the right to roam of 1274 into a single national law. They take formal shape only in the tenth and eleventh centuries, but their roots are the local legal traditions of separate kingdoms, and the political grammar of king-plus-þing, of war leader plus assembly of free men, is common to all of them. The Norwegian rural population learns, across the iron age and the petty-kingdom centuries, to expect to participate in its own legal life. The expectation never goes away.

The Sámi alongside

One major qualification: the peoples of these coastal kingdoms live along the coast and in the southern interior, and are the ancestors of Norway’s Norse-speaking majority. Through every one of these centuries, for at least two and a half thousand years, the inland highlands of the north are home to a different people. The Sámi are the Indigenous population of Sápmi Sophus Tromholt's 1882–83 photograph of open country at Kautokeino — pale sand bluffs and dunes in the foreground, the braided river winding through the plain, and a low treeless fell horizon under a clouded sky. Sophus Tromholt, Fra sandets regioner i Koutokæino (1882–83), Norsk Folkemuseum The cultural region of the Sámi Indigenous people, stretching across the northern interior of present-day Norway, Sweden, Finland, and the Russian Kola Peninsula. Sápmi has no political boundary but has been the homeland of the Sámi for at least two and a half thousand years. Its languages belong to the Uralic family and are unrelated to Norse. The Sámi parliaments of Norway, Sweden, and Finland — each representing the Sámi within their respective national systems — meet at Karasjok, Kiruna, and Inari respectively. Samene — the other people of NorwayThe Reformation, 1537 — one church eradicated and another imposed , the cultural region that stretches across the northern interior of present-day Norway, Sweden, Finland, and the Russian Kola Peninsula. Their languages belong to the Uralic family and are unrelated to Norse. A distinctly Sámi material culture is visible in the archaeological record from about 500 BCE, with deeper continuity reaching back to the same post-glacial hunters from whom the coastal populations also descend.

The two peoples develop in parallel. The coastal Norse build an economy of cattle, fishing, and grain. The Sámi inland build one of hunting, fishing, and trapping, with semi-domesticated reindeer used for transport long before the large-scale reindeer pastoralism that crystallizes in the medieval and early-modern centuries. The Sámi have their own religion, centered on the Noaidi An engraving from Schefferus's Lapponia (1673) — a Sámi noaidi lying in trance, his painted drum resting on his back, while a companion kneels with a second drum. Johannes Schefferus, Lapponia (1673), engraving of a noaidi with drum The Sámi ritual specialist — shaman, in the comparative-religion vocabulary that Western anthropology applied to similar figures across Eurasia. The noaidi was the religious officiant of the pre-Christian Sámi community, responsible for divination, healing, and communication with the spirits of the land and the dead. The noaidi's principal instrument was the goavddis, the painted drum whose surface diagrammed an entire spiritual cosmology. The practice was systematically persecuted by Norwegian and Swedish Lutheran missionaries through the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; many drums were burned, the recorded knowledge lost. The tradition survives in fragments in modern Sámi cultural and religious revival. Samene — the other people of NorwayThe Reformation, 1537 — one church eradicated and another imposed , the ritual specialist, and on the Goavddis A Sámi bowl drum (goavddis) from Lule Lappmark seen from above — reindeer hide stretched over a carved birch bowl, rows of red-brown cosmological figures painted across the membrane. Sámi bowl drum from Lule Lappmark (NM.0228846), photo Nordiska museet via DigitaltMuseum, CC BY-SA 3.0 The Sámi ritual drum (the noaidi's drum), Sámi goavddis (the Northern Sámi term; meavrresgárri in some other Sámi languages). An oval or bowl-shaped wooden frame stretched with reindeer hide and painted with figures from the Sámi cosmology — gods, animals, landscapes, the world tree — that diagrammed the spiritual world. The noaidi struck the drum and read the movements of a brass or bone pointer across the painted surface as divination. The drums were systematically confiscated and burned during the seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Lutheran missions to Sápmi; only about seventy historical drums survive worldwide. Samene — the other people of Norway , the painted drum that serves as the technology of an entire spiritual cosmology. They have their own sacred places: Sieidi An engraving from Schefferus's Lapponia (1673) of worship at a sieidi — a figure prostrated before the sacred stones, reindeer antlers heaped as offerings beside them. Johannes Schefferus, offering at a sieidi, from Lapponia (1673), via Norsk Folkemuseum / Wikimedia Commons A Sámi sacred place — a specific stone, spring, rock formation, or natural feature where offerings are left and a continuing relationship with the land is kept up. Sieidis dot the Sámi landscape across Sápmi; the offerings (small carved figures, antlers, coins, food, metal objects) accumulate over generations as a record of the community's relationship with that particular place. Like the goavddis drums, the sieidis were targets of Lutheran missionary destruction in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; some survive in archaeological context, others remain ritually active. Samene — the other people of Norway , specific stones or springs or rock formations where offerings are left and a relationship with the land is kept up. The boundary between Norse coast and Sámi interior is porous rather than legal: the northernmost Norwegian petty kingdoms draw much of their wealth from Sámi trade and tribute, and the Hålogaland magnates are rich men because the Sámi are their neighbors. The Sámi are not a vanished prehistoric people. They are still here, with their own parliament at Karasjok Anders Beer Wilse's 1933 photograph of Karasjok — two rows of low timber houses with turf roofs flanking the dirt village road. Anders Beer Wilse, Karasjok (1933), Norsk Folkemuseum Town in the inland Finnmark plateau of far northern Norway, on the Karasjok River. The Sámi name is Kárášjohka. Seat of the Sámediggi — the Sámi Parliament of Norway, opened in 1989 — which represents the Sámi people in the Norwegian political system. The Sámi Parliament building, designed by Stein Halvorsen and Christian Sundby and opened in 2000, takes the shape of a lavvu, the traditional Sámi tent. Karasjok / Kárášjohka and their own languages taught in schools. The country Harald will consolidate around 880 is already, at its formation, a shared land: the western coast under one emerging Norwegian crown, the northern interior under a people who have been there before anyone called the place Norway, and who are there still.

Halfdan, Harald, Hafrsfjord

The decisive consolidation begins with the king who drowned in the frozen lake. Halfdan the Black, king of Vestfold, is one of the most aggressive consolidators of the Petty kings Erik Werenskiold's 1899 Heimskringla drawing of the captured petty king Gryting led bound before King Harald, a farm burning across the field behind the spearmen. Erik Werenskiold, Den fangne kong Gryting føres fram for kong Harald (1899), Nasjonalmuseet The small-kingdom rulers of pre-unification Norway, smákonungar in Old Norse. From roughly the sixth century through the late ninth, the Norwegian coast was organised not as one country but as perhaps a dozen small thrones, each controlling a fjord or valley district. A petty king was a war leader and religious officiant who led men into battle, performed seasonal sacrifices, arbitrated disputes among his chieftains, and collected tribute in commodity from the farmsteads under his authority — but who governed alongside the regional thing, the assembly of free men. Harald Fairhair's consolidation around 880 broke the petty-kingdom system in the west and south; the inland and northern remnants persisted longer. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" period; across his reign in the 850s he absorbs several smaller kingdoms in the southeast, pushes his authority into Hedmark Gerhard Munthe's Fields at Hedmark in Summer — the broad, fertile farmland east of Lake Mjøsa under a rolling grey-lit sky, two figures small on the green. Gerhard Munthe, Fields at Hedmark in Summer (1875), Nasjonalmuseet / Google Art Project Inland region of southeastern Norway, east of the Mjøsa lake and the Romerike plain, traditionally one of the agriculturally important areas of the petty-kingdom inland. Halfdan the Black pushed his Vestfold authority into Hedmark in the 850s. The region was folded into the larger administrative county of Innlandet in 2020; the Hedmark name persists in local usage. Hedmark and Romerike A 1924 photograph of the Romerike farmland at Ullensaker — rolling fields, farm buildings, and a white church spire under the wide eastern-Norway sky. Carl Normann, Parti fra Ullensaker (1924), National Library of Norway The agricultural plain northeast of present-day Oslo, between the Oslofjord and Hedmark. In the petty-kingdom era a key inland region fought over by competing crowns; Halfdan the Black extended his authority here in the 850s. Modern Romerike is the area around Oslo Gardermoen Airport and the towns of Lillestrøm and Jessheim. Romerike , and is preparing further campaigns when he goes through the ice around 860. His ten-year-old son inherits the throne under guardianship.

Over the following two decades, the boy wages a campaign of conquest along the western coast. Saga tradition, written down by Snorri Sturluson Christian Krohg's Snorri Sturluson from the 1899 folk edition of Heimskringla — the historian seated with a great open book across his knees. Christian Krohg, Snorre Sturlason (1899), from Norges Kongesagaer; scan: National Library of Norway Thirteenth-century Icelandic chieftain, poet, and historian. Composed the Heimskringla and the Prose Edda in the 1220s from oral tradition and skaldic verse — three hundred years after the Viking-age events he describes. The single richest source for Norway's pre-conversion centuries and also the most aware Christian-Icelandic editor of them. Modern scholarship accepts what other sources independently confirm and treats his richest expansions as the work of a poet writing about a kingdom he had never seen. Assassinated at Reykholt on 23 September 1241 by agents of King Hákon IV after a falling-out at court. Snorri's Heimskringla preserves the Yngling genealogies of the Vestfold kings and the full saga telling of Harald's rise — Gyda's challenge, the uncut hair, the climax at Hafrsfjord — composed three centuries after the events, and weighed in this article against the one contemporary witness, Hornklofi's verse. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway"Worshiping Odin and Thor — the lived religion of pre-Christian NorwayThe King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristA Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you thinkThe Crusades?!!!! — sixty ships from Bergen, bound for the Holy LandNordisk Mytologi — Odin, the giants, and Ragnarok around 1230, three and a half centuries after the events, sets the climax at the Battle of Hafrsfjord Ole Peter Hansen Balling's 1870 Battle of Hafrsfjord — the fight surging across grappled longship decks, an archer high in the rigging and stones flying over a fjord crowded with ships. Ole Peter Hansen Balling, Harald Fairhair in the Battle of Hafrsfjord (1870), Nasjonalmuseet, NG.M.03750 The sea-battle in the Hafrsfjord near present-day Stavanger that saga tradition treats as the climactic engagement of Harald Fairhair's consolidation of the western Norwegian coast. The traditional date of 872 is a nineteenth-century back-calculation from Snorri's chronology; modern Norwegian scholarship places the battle in the 880s. Harald's coalition defeated an alliance of the petty kings of the western coast who had combined against him. The traditional site is marked by the Sverd i fjell monument — three giant bronze swords driven into the bedrock — on the eastern shore of the fjord. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" near what is now Stavanger Knud Knudsen's photograph of Stavanger in the late 1880s–early 1890s — the low wooden town spread around its harbour, church towers on the skyline, decades before the oil age. Knud Knudsen, Stavanger (1888-1894), National Library of Norway City on the southwestern Norwegian coast in Rogaland; modern Norway's fourth-largest city and the operational capital of the Norwegian petroleum economy since the 1970s. The traditional site of the sea-battle of Hafrsfjord that completed Harald Fairhair's consolidation lies at the city's southwestern edge, marked by the Sverd i fjell monument. The Norwegian Petroleum Directorate, the safety regulator (Havtil), and Equinor (formerly Statoil) are all headquartered in or around the city. Population around one hundred and forty thousand in the municipality; metropolitan area roughly twice that. Stavanger The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway"A Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe 400-Year Night — when the Northern Lion lay dormantThe 'Lucky Country' — the discovery that changed everything800,000 Norwegians Leave — the century that built a Second NorwayWorld War II — the King’s “No” and the Nazis in Norway , and gives Harald a famous backstory: he has sworn an oath not to cut his hair until he has subjected every petty king of the Norwegian coast, and at a feast at Earl Rognvald’s in Møre after Hafrsfjord Anders Beer Wilse's 1934 photograph of Hafrsfjord — the shallow fjord's calm water winding between low farmed shores and bare knolls southwest of Stavanger. Anders Beer Wilse, Hafrsfjord (1934), Galleri Nor / Norsk Folkemuseum Shallow fjord at the southwestern edge of present-day Stavanger, in Rogaland. Saga tradition places the sea-battle that completed Harald Fairhair's consolidation of the western Norwegian coast in this fjord — traditionally dated 872 (a nineteenth-century back-calculation from Snorri's chronology) but placed by modern scholarship in the 880s. The traditional battle site is marked by the Sverd i fjell monument, three giant bronze swords driven into bedrock on the eastern shore. Hafrsfjord, Stavanger The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" , the earl finally cuts the matted ten-year growth and gives him the byname Hárfagri, “Fairhair.” Modern scholarship treats most of this as later literary construction. The traditional date of 872 is a nineteenth-century back-calculation from Snorri’s chronology, fixed in popular memory by the country’s millennial celebration in 1872; modern Norwegian scholarship places Hafrsfjord in the 880s. The hair oath is probably an invention. In the contemporary court poetry Harald is not yet “Fairhair” at all — Þorbjörn Hornklofi Frederick Sandys's 1862 woodcut, engraved by Joseph Swain: a woman with long flowing hair — the valkyrie — stands wrapped in dark robes among dense wildflowers, gazing up at a raven perched on a bare pine branch, hills and a distant town behind; dense line work. Frederick Sandys (engr. Joseph Swain), Valkyrie and Raven, Once a Week, 1862, National Gallery of Victoria Late-ninth-century Norwegian skald, court poet of Harald Fairhair. Composed Haraldskvæði, a praise-poem to the king written within living memory of the events it describes — including the sea-battle of Hafrsfjord — and one of the very few contemporary skaldic sources for any part of Harald's reign. Hornklofi's verse calls the king lúfa ("shock-head"); the byname Hárfagri ("Fairhair") appears in other verse attributed to Harald's skalds, but those stanzas' authenticity is debated, and the name's earliest securely datable attestation is twelfth-century prose. ’s Haraldskvæði Late-ninth-century Old Norse praise-poem to Harald Fairhair, composed by his court skald Þorbjörn Hornklofi within living memory of the events it describes. The poem celebrates Harald's victory at the sea-battle of Hafrsfjord and calls the king lúfa ("shock-head"); the byname Hárfagri ("Fairhair") appears in other verse attributed to Harald's skalds, but those stanzas' authenticity is debated, and the name's earliest securely datable attestation is twelfth-century prose. The poem survives in fragments preserved in later prose sagas. , composed within living memory of the events, calls him lúfa, “Shaggy-locks.” The byname Hárfagri is younger: verse attributed to Harald’s own skalds does use it, but the stanzas’ authenticity is debated, and its earliest securely datable attestation is Ari Þorgilsson’s Íslendingabók A page of Íslendingabók in Jón Erlendsson's 1651 copy (AM 113 a fol.) — the neat seventeenth-century hand that preserves Ari Þorgilsson's twelfth-century Book of the Icelanders. Íslendingabók, AM 113 a fol. (1651 copy), Árni Magnússon Institute The Book of the Icelanders — Ari Þorgilsson's concise history of Iceland, written c. 1122–1133 and the oldest surviving narrative work in the Old Norse vernacular. Ari the Learned (1067/68–1148), a priest of Snæfellsnes, wrote at the request of the bishops of Skálholt, naming his informants and weighing their memory — the settlement from Norway, the founding of the Althing, the conversion of 1000, the first bishops. Its opening chapter carries the earliest surviving attestation of Harald Fairhair's unification of Norway, written two and a half centuries after the events. The medieval original is lost; the text survives in two copies made by the priest Jón Erlendsson in the 1650s (AM 113 a and b fol.). , written in the early twelfth century, some two and a half centuries after Hafrsfjord. What the early skalds never give him, though, is a geographical title. He is konungr in their verse, but never king of all Norway. The full geographical claim is a later construction, set in by the saga writers in the centuries after the consolidation had been remembered as more complete than it actually was.

How much of the modern country he actually controls is debated. His authority probably reaches along the western coast and across the southern interior but stops short of the Arctic north and the inland mountains. The earls of Lade, controlling the agricultural plain of Trøndelag, will fight Harald’s heirs for influence over the throne for the better part of the next century. The full administrative consolidation of Norway, what modern Norwegian scholarship calls the Rikssamling Christian Krohg's 1899 Heimskringla drawing of Gyda at the loft door, watching Harald's messengers ride away — the refusal that set off the vow to gather Norway under one king. Christian Krohg, Kong Haralds sendemenn kjem andre gongen til Gyda, Heimskringla 1899 edition (J.M. Stenersen & Co) Norwegian for "realm-gathering" — the long process of unifying the Norwegian petty kingdoms into a single national polity. Traditionally dated to Harald Fairhair's consolidation around 880, modern Norwegian scholarship treats the rikssamling as a process running from Halfdan the Black in the mid-ninth century through the kings of the twelfth century, not a single event. What Harald established in his lifetime was the durable idea of a single Norwegian crown; the full administrative consolidation took another three hundred years to complete. , the “realm-gathering,” is not completed until well into the twelfth century, under kings who come generations after Harald. What Harald does establish, more limited but more durable, is the idea of a single Norwegian crown.

Many of the chieftains who refuse to accept his authority emigrate rather than submit. Their destination is Iceland Sepia photograph from about 1900 of the farm at Galtalækur, Iceland: a row of white-gabled farmhouses built into turf and stone walls, pack ponies standing at the wall, a haycock in the home field, and the slopes of Hekla lost in haze behind. Frederick W. W. Howell, Galtalækur and Hekla (c. 1900), Fiske Icelandic Collection, Cornell University Library The North Atlantic island settled from Norway in the ninth and tenth centuries by chieftains and their followings who refused to accept Harald Fairhair's authority on the Norwegian mainland and emigrated rather than submit. They built a country without a king, governed by an annual open-air assembly at Þingvellir called the Alþing — the oldest parliament in the world by date of founding. Three centuries after the migration, their descendants (notably Snorri Sturluson) composed the prose sagas that became almost the only literary memory of the Norwegian petty kingdoms. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway"Worshiping Odin and Thor — the lived religion of pre-Christian NorwayThe King Who Became a Saint — how the Nordmen came to ChristA Catholic Norway — the faith that gave the kingdom its first institutions and the stave churchesThe Golden Age — a North Atlantic empire … reaching farther than you thinkThe 400-Year Night — when the Northern Lion lay dormant , where they and their descendants build a country without a king, governed by an annual open-air assembly at Þingvellir Þórarinn B. Þorláksson's 1900 painting of Þingvellir — a horse standing at the still water of the assembly plain in violet evening light, the church and blue fells behind. Thorarinn B. Thorlaksson, Thingvellir (1900) The plain of the thing — the open-air assembly site about forty kilometres northeast of Reykjavík where the Icelandic Alþing was founded in 930 CE. Iceland's law-speakers, free farmers, and chieftains met here annually for two weeks of legal proceedings, dispute resolution, and announcements of new law. The site sits on the geological rift where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates pull apart. Now Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" called the Alþing W.G. Collingwood's painting of the Althing in session at Þingvellir — chieftains ranged along the rift's rock ledges above the tented booths, the lake plain and fells beyond. W. G. Collingwood, The Althing in session (c. 1897), The Trustees of the British Museum The annual open-air assembly of the Icelandic Commonwealth, founded at Þingvellir in 930 CE by the descendants of the Norwegian chieftains who had emigrated rather than submit to Harald Fairhair's consolidation. The Alþing met for two weeks each summer, conducted Iceland's legal business, and operated without a king for over three centuries — the longest-running stateless polity in medieval Europe. Reconstituted in 1845 as a consultative body and given legislative powers in 1874 with Iceland's first constitution. The modern Icelandic parliament still bears the name Alþingi and is the oldest continuously named parliament in the world. The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" . Three centuries later, their descendants will compose the prose sagas that become almost the only memory of the Norwegian petty kingdoms and the country Harald has consolidated out of them.

What is still here

The country still carries the inheritance. Most of the regional names — Vestfold, Sogn, Trøndelag, Agder, Rogaland — survive on the modern map, traceable back through a thousand years of regional usage to the same valleys they originally described. Some have been folded into newer administrative units under recent county reforms, but the older names persist in everyday speech, in dialect, in folk identity. The four medieval law-codes, descended from the regional þing traditions of the petty kingdoms, are unified into the Landslov of 1274 and remain the law of Norway for more than four hundred years. The royal mounds at Borre still hold their Vestfold kings. The Sámi parliament sits at Karasjok in the far north. And the country has even kept the name the Hålogaland sea-trader Ohthere used for it at King Alfred’s court around 890: Norðweg Joan Blaeu's seventeenth-century map Norvegia Regnum — the sea-road kingdom drawn along its whole fjord-cut coast, ships working the ocean margin, the royal lion arms in the corner. Joan Blaeu, Norvegia Regnum (before 1659), National Library of Norway "The northern way" — the sailing route up the Norwegian coast that gave the country its name. The attested form Norðweg is Old English: the earliest surviving written use of the term is in Ohthere of Hålogaland's c. 890 account given at King Alfred's court, preserved in the Old English Orosius. The Old Norse form is Norðvegr, contracting to Nóregr. The word names the road rather than a land: the coastal sailing passage that linked the petty kingdoms before it linked the unified country. Modern Norwegian Norge and English Norway both descend from it. , “the northern way,” the road its coastal kingdoms had always lived on, the road that finally tied them into one country.

The unifying kings claim the country. The country is older than they are.

Sources & further reading

Primary sources

  • Snorri Sturluson, Heimskringla (c. 1225–1235), particularly Ynglinga saga and Hálfdanar saga svarta.
  • Jordanes, Getica (551 CE), geographical preamble describing Scandza.
  • Ynglingatal, late-ninth-century skaldic genealogy attributed to Þjóðólfr of Hvinir.
  • Haraldskvæði, contemporary praise-poem to Harald attributed to Þorbjörn Hornklofi.
  • Ohthere of Hålogaland’s c. 890 account given at King Alfred’s court, preserved in the Old English Orosius.

Modern scholarship

  • Sverre Bagge, From Viking Stronghold to Christian Kingdom: State Formation in Norway, c. 900–1350 (Copenhagen: Museum Tusculanum Press, 2010).
  • Knut Helle, Norge blir en stat: 1130–1319, 2nd edition (Oslo: Universitetsforlaget, 1995).
  • Claus Krag, Vikingtid og rikssamling: 800–1130 (Oslo: Aschehoug, 1995).
  • Jón Viðar Sigurðsson, Norsk historie 800–1300: frå høvdingmakt til konge- og kyrkjemakt (Oslo: Det Norske Samlaget, 1999).

Reference

  • Store norske leksikon (snl.no), entries on Halfdan Svarte, Harald 1 Hårfagre, slaget ved Hafrsfjord, Yngling-ætten, samer, småkongedømmer, and Landsloven av 1274.

Visit

  • The Borre Mound Cemetery, Vestfold — the Yngling royal mounds, with the Midgard Vikingsenter museum at the site.
  • Sverd i fjell Fritz Røed's 1983 monument Sverd i fjell — three giant bronze swords driven point-down into the rock on the shore of Hafrsfjord, under a towering summer sky. Photo: TomasEE (2013), Sverd i fjell, Hafrsfjord — CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons Norwegian for "swords in mountain" — a 1983 sculpture by Fritz Røed on the eastern shore of Hafrsfjord near Stavanger, marking the traditional site of Harald Fairhair's consolidating sea-battle. Three giant bronze swords, each about ten metres tall, are driven point-down into the bedrock; one represents Harald, the other two represent the defeated petty kings. The monument commemorates both the battle itself and the country's unification under a single crown. One of Stavanger's principal landmarks. Sverd i fjell, Hafrsfjord The Viking Age — longships, legends, and the first "Norway" , Hafrsfjord, Stavanger — the three-sword monument marking the traditional site of the battle.